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This section contains questions and topics related to troubleshooting BoXZY's CNC milling head.

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Milling test with photos, videos, G-code files - leveling issue?

Ok, maybe I was a little too ambitious for a first attempt!

Here is the picture I started from:

http://www.naturisland.com/BoXZY/Cardiff...

Processed in PhotoVCarve, 40° v-bit, 1.5mm depth should give this:

http://www.naturisland.com/BoXZY/Cardiff...

This is what I got:

http://www.naturisland.com/BoXZY/IMG_354...

Here is a short vid of BoXZY busy V-carving (30secs, 45MB):

http://www.naturisland.com/BoXZY/IMG_353...

Here is the G-code file:

http://www.naturisland.com/BoXZY/Cardiff...

Several things come to mind. First the leveling issue, the workpiece height is set at the far end (X=150, Y=0) and, the cuts are as expected, but as we get closer to (X=0, Y=100) I don't even touch the surface anymore.

I'm concerned the workpiece platform lacks rigidity for this kind of work.

Another issue is that my lines aren't straight, there is definitely a wobble.

Answer this question I have this problem too

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Eric, how did you level the bed?

When you started the file, did you home Z to be with the bit on the board? I have not tried milling yet, as I really don't want to get shavings all over my office. I am kind of waiting for the magnetic panels so I can contain the mess at least.

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I clamped the workpiece straight to the perforated support as I'm not cutting through.

I'm not sure the MDF helps unless I mill it level, this would be the easiest option.

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Sure sounds like a leveling problem, question is, how to level the perforated support.

You could also make a piece of wood that is supported by the leveling screws intended for the 3D printer. Not sure if that is easier than leveling the MDF board.

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Just guessing here, but I would try using the sacrificial plate and clamp it to that, then adjust z0 again and see if it does what you want it to.

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Second try, I shimmed up the workpiece with a 2mm thick metal strip under the lower end.

The wood was not strong enough (or the feed rate too high), but the leveling was good.

Cut depth needs to be a tad deeper, probably 0.5 mm to 1mm so I carve also the lighter areas of the picture.

http://www.naturisland.com/BoXZY/IMG_355...

I'm a little worried about clamping down the workpiece too close to the work area.

This is why I put only one clamp at one end, this wasn't enough and when v-carving the outline I got a ugly scar in the top left (X0 Y100) corner.

Any tips as to the best kind of wood for carving ? Cherry? MDF? This was pine.

The idea is to fill in the carved out areas with a dark putty. Or a dark wood with a lighter color putty, I can reverse the picture.

Not yet happy with the result, making progress nonetheless.

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I suspect that wood is splintering off that should of remained resulting in loss of detail. Try a stronger material or coarser resolution.

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Yes, I will try a different kind of wood, reduce the feed rate, or both. I do this as a hobby so it's mostly on weekends.. I'll share my results when I have some.

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Did you check the tool? Due to vibration, it might have worked its way into the chuck, especially if it wasn't put against any end stop inside. Usually there is no end stop and you might want to put one in or tighten the chuck much better. IMHO the wrench is only a bit better than a toy.

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Good thinking, thanks for the idea.

On my second try, the cut depth is the same throughout the picture, so the tool hasn't moved in the chuck.

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Regarding the levelling of the base plate: Did you go thru the procedure, contained in the 3D-printing section? It starts with step 11 in Quick-Start 3D Printing and worked excellently for me. No need to add shimming parts.

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Some thoughts after reading your answer. (also contradicting my own comment above)

Your sugestion would require the use of the 3D print platform for milling and laser cutting, the holes in the supplied sacreficial board suggest that for milling we should not use that platform. The reason for that is probbably that the object is then placed on 3 springs to keep it level, this is great for 3D printing, but if you mill something hard (metal) you will shift it around while milling.

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Exactly- I was concerned the part would shift on the 3D printing plate.

When I get some time I will try MDF (short fibers, homogeneous structure) or harder wood see what it gives.

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Eric Zucker will be eternally grateful.
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