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Quick-change clamp popped off, how best to fix

When I first tried to put in the milling head, the level clamp wouldn't close. I assumed it was the familiar design where you turn the bolt to adjust the tension, so I backed off a turn on the bolt and tried the lever again. The bolt promptly pulled out of the cylinder/axle it's screwed into.

The following parts flew off: the bolt, 2 round washers, the axle, the lever, and a rectangular flat spring/washer. I reassembled it, but the orientation of the rectangular spring/washer isn't obvious (it seems just slightly curved, which is why I think it might be intended as a spring).

I put it back together, but it was difficult, partly because of thread damage from when it popped loose. And it was no better a fit than before. So I ran a 5mm tap through the cylinder to clear the threads, and replaced the bolt with a longer 5mm threaded rod and nut, so I can adjust at the other end.

So, my question is: what order should all these parts go in (maybe post a close-up picture so anyone with this problem can see how to fix it)? And, how can I get a fresh bolt, preferably about 5mm longer so it can have more than one thread engaged?


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Hi, Steven. Let me check some internal documents and hopefully post an answer here on Monday.


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Hi, from looking at ours the first thing on the bolt is the metal washer, then the nylon washer. Then the bolt is threaded through the clamp. The plastic square washer is then next, and is slightly curved outwards.

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For the bolt, it is a M5 - .8 coarse thread 35mm. After looking online the best place I found to get one would actually be Home Depot. McMaster-Carr and those kinds of sites require you to by a whole box.

Here is a link to a screw that is 45mm long. I would not go longer than this because it would then be close to the Y-axis rod. They may also have 40mm which would work fine, or hex socket screws.

Home Depot 45mm Machine Screw

Hope this helps

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I don't have a photo to share yet, here's what I've been told.

(A) The rectangular washer is made from Delrin. The curvature is irrelevant, but you will see that the washer is not symmetrical - the hole is closer to one edge.

(B) The threaded pivot pin IS symmetrical - you can spin it 180 degrees and perhaps get more of the undamaged thread facing toward the bolt. This is tricky to do when the machine is assembled. You may find it helpful to use a hex wrench to align the pin.


Great, thanks! Looks like I guessed right on the arrangement, then. I used scotch tape to hold the pivot pin steady, then pulled the tape out after it was together; I imagine a hex wrench would work fine, too.


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Steven DeRose will be eternally grateful.
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