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Guide for removing the quick connect clamp?

I have seen the dual printer head, actually it is kind of incomplete right now. I need to figure how to add another extruder to use it, and it also needs another couple of heater cores and a couple of thermistors.

I know where to get the heater cores and thermistors, but I have no idea how to unbolt the carriage and to modify the system to use the additional area of the head.

Anyone have any information on the mod?

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I can help soon. I know the team is working on a bearing replacement guide, this will tell you most of it. Mainly it's moving the Y axis to where it's over the little square cutout in the back (move the X to the center). Removing the bolt from the back of the Y bracket through the cutout, undoing the set screws that go into the rails on the aluminum bearing brackets (at the rail ends), pulling the X and Y outer most rails out (one from the side, the other from the front, just removing one flange for each), remove the aluminum bearing brackets by sliding them under the body openings, then slide out the bar that you removed the bolt from originally out of the front of the machine. This will allow you to slide the gantry off the side of the last rail and remove it (don't remove the last rail, just the gantry). Simply re-install in reverse. The software should be very easy, just selecting a 1 vs a 0 in a few places. I'll look into it in a few days. Most difficult thing will be making sure the limit switches line up with the available room. If you want to work on it, I'll be happy to help where I can.

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Thank you. I will start to look for the guide. Looks like I will need a lot of room to do this.


It sounds more intimidating than it is. Takes me about 15 minutes to remove my head, change the bearings, and reinstall. Half of that is changing the bearings.


Do you have to change the bearings often?

Keep in mind, this is the first time I have ever worked on a 3D printer, and never used ballscrews in any mechanical device. So I am wondering if I need to re-pack em and such, have done that for the wheels on my car.

Don;t know if that is comparable though.


You shouldn't need to worry about the bearings too much at all. A local company here has 3 BoXZY units running 8 hours a day milling hard woods, plastic, and even sometimes brass. They have only replaced 2 of the outer LM12UU bearings and none of the others after nearly a year of full-time daily use. They re-oil once a month or so from what they told me. The LM(K)12UU are the ones that can be easily replaced and should be oiled regularly when milling materials that create lots of debris. The ballscrews are meant to be lubed with graphite engine assembly lube through the holes you will notice on underside of the ballnut flange (the part the aluminum bracket bolts to). These holes have setscrews deep in them that need only to be unscrewed and removed before squeezing the lube into the hole as you rotate the ballscrew by hand. Just make sure you reinstall the set screws. Unless you are milling very often, this needs only to be done every few hundred hours of hard use.


*This is more advanced information and the vast majority of users will never even need to think about doing this* After many months of serious milling use including metals (wood dust doesn't really bother the ballscrews themselves and can even help retain the lube by creating a barrier on the seal itself) you may then want to clean out the ballnut by removing it, soaking it, and re-packing the internal ball bearings (the actual loose balls). This takes about 4-5 hours in total. I personally just use a hollow brass pipe as the transfer tube and zip tie it in place in the middle of the ballnut (to keep the balls in place) set it straight up and down inside a sonic cleaner and clean them that way. I do remove the plastic seals first. I don't take the time to remove and re-pack the ball bearings as my method still gets everything perfectly clean. Then I just soak it in oil for a bit, reinstall, and add lube. It's easy to accidentally drop or misalign some bearings when you transfer it onto the shaft, so I wouldn't try the cleaning process until the team or I can get a guide up so you know what to pay attention to.


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