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These manuals will walk you through the BoXZY experience, from the first un-boxing to using your device for the first time. Please follow each numbered manual in sequence so that you don't miss any crucial information. After you complete 1.3 Using Your BoXZY, you'll be able to move on to the 3D Printing, Laser Engraving, and CNC Milling manuals.

84 Questions View all

BoXZY CNC Vacuum Hood / Dust Collector / Dust Shoe

With any amount of milling the ballscrews get completely overloaded with shards of aluminum and wood, which seems like it's a good way to kill the machine.

Has anybody rigged up a dust shoe yet?

Or - has anybody tried to put loom or a shroud over the ballscrews to prevent them from gunking up?

I'm going to browse through http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:1...

(and, as it turns out, the diameter of the Makita router is about 64.5mm)

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Will be trying both as I already have destroyed bearings. Outside and ballscrew. Centre bearings also noisy.

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I printed up the Norwegian Creations one in ABS - here it is mounted on the BoXZY:

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I decided to cut off some up the vacuum tube with a hacksaw:

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...it has the appearance of having too much Z height.

I started attaching a skirt made of foam sheet (similar to the Norwegian Creations image), but picked up sheets of vinyl and a bunch of nylon brooms at a dollar store - I'll report back when I get this together.

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Has anybody looked at how much depth this adds to the bottom of the Makita router? Did you need to use an end mill extension? Did you need longer bit shanks? We have just purchased a Boxzy and are looking at using the milling for fine work (.6mm diameter bits) but the shanks are only 1.25" long. Will they clear the bottom of the dust shoe and skirt? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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The print lands flush with the bottom of the collet nut, if it is on as far as possible, and not accounting for the skirt. One issue I ran into was the width; the sides, and the horizontal vent tubes' supports were running into my clamps outside the edge of the milling area on larger pieces. Along with trimming the extra vacuum tube length, I printed the horizontal vent much shorter, and then cut off all of the extra support material from the vent tubes, and around the base with a rotary tool. The skirt makes up the difference for suction, but is more forgiving in a pinch. I made a simple skirt using thick paper, duct tape, and hot glue. It works adequately. You need enough rigidity for the skirt to not be sucked into the vacuum, but flexible enough to handle your vertical movement. I set the skirt as long as my end mill. I have had no problems since making these modifications, and it catches 80-90% of the debris made during the operation, and the remainder stays down.

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One thing I did also do was put a simple guard in front of the Z axis ballscrew to prevent stray chips from getting into it. Not many did, but it is a pain to get sawdust (or worse metal chips) out of the lubricant. This again is just a piece of paper for the time being.

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After a bit of digging around for "Makita RT0700C dust shoe" I found this - http://www.norwegiancreations.com/2014/0... - "An Open Source CNC Dust Shoe" by Norwegian Creations:

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The skirt is just foam that is hot glued on.

The STL file can be downloaded here: http://www.norwegiancreations.com/wp-con...

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The angled vacuum duct looks like it should work with the BoXZY. I'll print one up and report back in a bit.

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Another one:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:439271

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It should be noted that the above is not for the Makita RT700C, but with some minor CAD adjustments it might become an option.

Adding a face groove (in the mating surface) for a gasket might improve the design.

I am still in my 3D printing phase and had no time to fool around with the milling option.

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Also, the vacuum tube rising straight up won't really work with the BoXZY.

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I designed this one specifically for my boxzy based on the idea of the Norwegian Creations design.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-...

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Some of those prints look awesome. I'm gonna try one myself after seeing them. I currently zip tie cut up dish sponges around the ends of my ballscrews when milling metal. Works great but a nice vacuum connection would reduce my cleaning time between methods. Eagerly looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

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Has anyone tried attaching rubber bellows around the ball screws? They are rubber and accordion shaped. It looks like you could attach 2 on each ball screw, one on each side of the bearing housing, to get the most movement out of the carriage.

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Garnet will be eternally grateful.
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