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This section contains questions and topics for troubleshooting your BoXZY Power Station.

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international power supply modification

Hi All,

Just received my Boxzy thursday. I'm very happy with build quality

I was a bit surprised to learn I need a step down power converter to get the required 110-120V for the included power supply (I'm in Holland with 230V).

As I can't use Boxzy until I do, I wondered what the power supply contains and if I could modify it. I popped it open to find:

Input power goes via the emergency stop and ignition key switches. Then splits to the output sockets and to a self contained power supply providing the 19V for the Boxzy electronics. It's a 120V input, 19V output, 200W led power supply.

As that all seems relatively straight forward I figure it would be easy to replace the power supply with a 230v input one. I could also modify the output sockets to European ones, but that is of second order. That way I can power my 230V Makita milling head with the Boxzy power supply so it will also shutdown when the emergency button is pushed.

A 200W 19V power supply is not as easy to find as I thought. How strict is the 19V Boxzy input power? The electronics board in the Boxzy says 16-24V input, so would there be a penalty to use a 24V supply?

Thanks in advance ;-)

Answer this question I have this problem too

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I've done some more digging:

The Boxzy main PCB is an Ultimaker Original Main Board PCB version 1.5.7. That is an open source board used in lots of open source 3D printers. Because of this, there is a large community of people that use it.

The question of 24v has been asked many times and the answer is complicated.

The board is capable of running on 16-24v but some of the connected components might not be. As Boxzy is designed even more components fed by the main electronics, I'm not going to risk it.

My search for a power supply for 220V has yielded a few results that are electrically compatible. But none so far are small enough to fit in the enclosure with all the other parts in there.

That means either going with a step down transformer as suggested or building a new power supply enclosure. I'll go with the later eventually, so the emergency stop will also stop my milling head.

If anyone has idea's where to find a 220v power supply with dimensions similar to 33 x 59 x 213 mm, please let me know!


BoXZY only needs 100W for printing and laser etching according to the team. I'm told they built in the additional capacity for future hacks and additions. In my experience writing the heated bed guide, BoXZY as it's delivered doesn't even use 80 watts during printing even with all 3 axis, heater, filament drive and all funs running at 100% simultaneously.


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I was thinking of also doing this myself. You could have luck looking into laptop power bricks, the Dell 0WW4XY is close with 180W @ 19.5VDC (dimensions 155x76x31mm). Some outfits make universal ones, that should work.

My main concern is if someone (including myself) inadvertently plugs 230V straight into the BoXZY power box.

I would put IEC C13 outputs as they are a worldwide standard. The E-stop and key switches need replacement if they are not approved for 230V, there's an isolation risk there, or wire them to control a low voltage relay.

You'll still have the problem of powering BoxZY's Makita mill, which is U.S. rated. I bought the same one in its 230V version.

All in all, I would just build a new power brick, complete with E-Stop, IEC input and whatever outputs I need.

In the meantime I bought a beefy 2kW 230-115V step-down transformer to get me started quickly.

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I just bought this -

It can adapt to both 110V and 240V.


Edwin Yeo.

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I ended up getting this power supply because the LED supply is horribly noisy - enough to cause errors on the USB comm port. It happens to run from 100-240V input as well. Got it on Ebay.

HP supply close up.

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I have got a new 2000W step down power converter, similar to what is suggested by in the letter from the BoXzy team. But this thing is really scary to use at home. When turned on, it sounds very noisy . I had ran into several fuse failure problems as well. By now, I still cannot get it to run.

I believe a 500W converter should be enough. I am going to get one and try it out during the coming weekend.

Update (06/05/2016)

I have tested the Super CT-1500 (1500W) power supply. It works fine.

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Be careful! Some of those step-down transformers are really poorly made!


You purchased this one as recommended?

The team has reported there have been no issues so far for anyone using this part. For lasering and 3d printing, you only need a converter rated for at least 400 watts. If you want to plug your milling head into the power supply you will need at least a 2000 watt unit.


Thank you all so much for the advices.

I just learnt that the mill runs at 935W.....pretty powerful and high power draw!

Do you think I can power the main board and the Makita Mill using separate power source?


100% you can. The advantage to running the Makita through the power supply is that the E-stop allows you to rapidly turn it and everything else off if something goes awry.


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Maurits Hermans will be eternally grateful.
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