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The extruder prints too thin when having to perform retractions

I,m having difficulty finding the right retraction value, etc., when I print thin-walled objects such as a vertical rudder fin for a aircraft. this happens to cause the wall of the object to become super thin or not print sections of that object especially when there is a island created that starts off as two objects that eventually join together.

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Update (12/11/2017)

Oops. Heres the video.

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I forgot the video. Here it is.

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This is usually a sign your temperature is just slightly too high, giving the plastic too liquid of a consistency so that gravity can act on it to draw it out after the retract stage. Sometimes just increasing fan speed can help (assuming a low pre-existing fan speed), other times only reducing the temperature will do anything. Retraction is only half the equation as the plastic behaves differently at each given temperature, so they both have to work together. If you don't feel like lowering the temperature or increasing the fan speed is a good idea, you can usually add a small Z hop, that you can tune the distance of, that will provide more mechanical force to disengage the filament as it retracts. It also gives more time for the filament to re-fill the nozzle on its way down. That setting can be found with the others in the configuration for your slicer.

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Hello, Thanks for your advise. I did experiment with the fan, and tried lowering the extruder temperature from 200 to 188, but unfortunately it stopped extruding so failed print the aircraft control surfaces after I went to bed.

I tried this morning using the fan at 22% and increased the extruder temperature from 200 to 206 and flow rate from 100 to 110% in stages and now I have near perfect printing. The print quality also improved vastly as I believe that because of the temperature increase, the plastic has lower viscosity and flowed more easily through the extruder and the thinning up all but disappeared. I'm currently printing using AIO PLA filament but will try these settings using HatchBox PLA on printing the aircraft fuselage section and see how that works out as it has very complicated contours to it. I'll post and update when I complete that job with the results.

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I have since experimented with the Flow Rate, Extrusion Temperature and Z- Hop and found a good standard to go by now. The Extrusion temperature seemed to be to most critical of them all as there is a threshold of when the flow gets slow and causing the extrusion clogs and thinning of the walls and 204 to 207 degrees celsius seems to be the best range for best flow and control. On the Z- Hop, I'm still refining, but it does help with the wall thinning issue and also lessening of the spider webbing that goes on when the extruder jumps from one spot to another too. I also found that on the fan, it seems to keep the Extruder happy and keeps the lines drawn more cleaner plus a lot less warping at 12% instead of 22% that I used previously.

I'm still trying to figure out how to cut down on the "Pimples" on the surfaces,but I have a feeling it has to do with the slicer program so that's another issue to resolve in the future.

Thanks for your advise!

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Gogian Yee will be eternally grateful.
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